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Ranjani's Travels

Kolkata

2 nights in ITC Sonar

Nicknamed the City of Joy, Kolkata truly lives to its name. As a first time visitor, who spent 3 days exploring its historic sites and wandering through a maze of crowded streets, I found that its ‘joy’ shines through the city’s chaotic energy, grand architecture, passionate people, and delicious Bengali sweets.

We hired a car and driver for our three days of sightseeing around the city and the driver knew the most efficient routes to cover all the sites. We didn’t feel the need for a guide, as most of the places we visited had plenty of information available on-site.

  • Day 1 (Afternoon)
    • Mother Teresa House
    • Victoria Memorial
    • Maidan
    • Eden Gardens
  • Day 2
    • Prinsep Ghat
    • Howrah Bridge on Hooghly River
    • St Paul’s Cathedral
    • Dalhousie Square or BBD Bagh
    • St Andrew’s church
    • Metcalfe Hall
    • General Post Office
    • Kalighat Kali Temple
    • New Market
  • Day 3 (Morning)
    • St. John’s Church
    • Indian Museum

Mother Teresa House – Considered more a place of pilgrimage than a tourist attraction, this house is the final resting place of Mother Teresa, who is buried in a tomb inside. The House is the Head Quarters of the Missionaries of Charity that was founded in 1950 with a single purpose of selfless service towards the underprivileged and poorest of the poor.

A small entrance hall leads into a three-storey courtyard. On the ground floor, one end of the courtyard contains a room with a small chapel and Mother Teresa’s tomb. Next to it is a modest one-room museum.

Courtyard in Mother Teresa House – Tomb, chapel, and museum in the rooms on the right

Mother Teresa’s Tomb – The simple marble sarcophagus, has become an important pilgrimage site.

Mother Teresa tomb

Museum – The museum displays some of her personal belongings, letters, and photographs, offering insight into her life and humanitarian work. Photography not allowed inside.

Mother’s Room (First Floor) – On the first floor is Mother Teresa’s simple living and working space, preserved and open to visitors. The room contains a bed, a desk, a cupboard, a shelf, a table, and a bench, reflecting the modest lifestyle she led. Photography not allowed inside.


Victoria Memorial – Built by the British between 1906 and 1921, the Victoria Memorial is dedicated to Queen Victoria, who was Empress of India from 1876 to 1901. The interior features 25 galleries showcasing portraits of Indian freedom fighters, artifacts related to the British monarchy, sculptures, and historical weapons. The building’s rotunda is particularly striking and adds to its architectural grandeur.

Victoria Memorial Facade
Victoria Memorial – Rotunda

Colorful Horse Carriages – The street Opposite the Victoria memorial was lined with brightly coloured horse driven carriages. 

Horse Carriages lined outside Vitoria Memorial

Maidan – Kolkata’s maidan is the heart and lungs of the city. It is a large green and open space and is home to numerous sporting clubs and grounds, including the historic Eden Garden cricket stadium. This area is within walking distance of Victoria Memorial

Maidan (playground)

Eden Gardens – Often described as cricket’s answer to the Colosseum and regarded as the Mecca of Indian cricket, Eden Gardens is one of the sport’s most iconic stadiums. Established in 1864, it can seat around 68,000 spectators, making it one of the largest cricket stadiums in the world. There were no matches during our visit to Kolkata, so we could only view the stadium from the outside.

Eden Gardens Cricket Stadium

Prinsep Ghat – We kicked off day 2 with a visit to Prinsep Ghat. Also known as James Prinsep Monument, this structure was built in 1843 to honor the Anglo-Indian scholar James Prinsep. Located on the banks of the Hooghly River, the monument features a Palladian porch and a neoclassical design with Greek and Gothic inlays and is supported by Ionian columns.

Prinsep Ghat

You can see the Vidyasagar Setu bridge above the monument.


Howrah Bridge, Vidyasagar Setu Bridge on Hooghly River – The Hooghly River is the westernmost distributary of the Ganges. It flows southward through the metropolis of Kolkata before emptying into the Bay of Bengal. It serves as an important water source for both human and industrial use and supports large populations along its course through its rich fish resources.

The river was within walking distance, just behind James Prinsep Ghat. From the riverbank, we could see both the Vidyasagar Setu and the Howrah Bridge. The Vidyasagar Setu is a cable-stayed bridge that opened in 1992 and is located close to Prinsep Ghat.

Vidyasagar Setu bridge on Hooghly River

Opened in 1943, the Howrah Bridge is one of Kolkata’s most iconic landmarks. Located opposite the Vidyasagar Setu, this massive steel structure spans the Hooghly River and is considered one of the longest cantilever bridges in the world. It carries more than 100,000 vehicles and countless pedestrians each day.

Howrah Bridge on Hooghly River
Driving on Howrah Bridge

St Paul’s Cathedral – Built in 1847 in gothic style, it was one of the largest churches of India and also the first Episcopal Church in Asia. Located in the heart of the city, this colossal structure reminds you of the colonial times. 

St Paul’s Cathedral – Facade
St Paul’s Cathedral – interior with its wide roof-span and generally open feel.

Dalhousie Square or BBD Bagh – occupying an area of over 2 sq km, this plaza is brimming with colonial-era architecture. Out driver dropped us off near the iconic Writers Building, which stands out with its red stone structure. Built in 1777, it was the main office of the British East India Company.  Since India’s independence in 1947, it housed the office of the Chief Minister of West Bengal, cabinet ministers and other senior officials, until October 2013, when a major restoration of the building was announced.

Writers building in BBD Bagh

St Andrew’s church – We walked from the Writers’ Building to the next street corner, where we found ourselves in front of St. Andrew’s Church. Built between 1815 and 1818, this Presbyterian church features an impressive white façade supported by tall Doric pillars and stands in the busy BBD Bagh area. While old paintings and photographs capture the church in all its former grandeur, today’s crowded surroundings make it difficult to fully appreciate its beauty.

St Andrew’s church – Facade with Doric pillars
St Andrew’s church – Side view
St Andrew’s church – Interior

Metcalfe Hall – As you continue walking around BBD Bagh, you will eventually come across Metcalfe Hall, another impressive colonial-era structure. Built between 1840 and 1844 and named after Charles Metcalfe, the Governor-General of India from 1835 to 1838, the building was originally intended to serve as a public library. Today, it is a designated heritage structure and houses exhibition galleries of the Archaeological Survey of India.

Metcalfe Hall – The building is raised on a solid basement and thirty huge Corinthian pillars support and surround the whole building.
Metcalfe Hall, Alpona painting at the entrance – Alpona refers to a folk art painted on the floor by hand on auspicious occasions in Bengal and many parts of South India. it is traditionally white as it is done using a rice paste.

General Post Office – Built between 1864 and 1868, this magnificent building is located at one of the busiest corners of Dalhousie Square (BBD Bagh) and is one of the city’s key landmarks. It serves as Kolkata’s central post office and is the largest post office in West Bengal, handling most of the city’s inbound and outbound mail and parcels.

General Post Office

Lunch stop at Park Street – Park Street is a famous and bustling thoroughfare in Kolkata. It is a popular destination for food lovers, with numerous iconic restaurants and street-food stalls offering both local and international cuisine. The street also serves as a major artery, effectively dividing the city into its northern and southern parts.

Lunch at Peter Cat on Park street

Kalighat Kali Temple – This Hindu temple complex, dating back to the early 1800s, is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas and a major pilgrimage site. It is a revered center of worship for the goddess Kali and is believed to mark the spot where the toes of Sati’s right foot fell. Visitors can wait in the regular line for a free darshan, or pay ₹700 to use a shorter line for a closer view of the goddess.

Kalighat Kali Temple

New Market – is a historic bargain hunter’s paradise built by the British in 1874. This sprawling maze of more than 2,000 stalls, grouped together according to the type of goods sold, offers almost everything imaginable.

New Market
New Market

St. John’s Church – originally a cathedral, it was among the first public buildings erected by the East India Company after Kolkata (Calcutta) became the effective capital of British India. Construction of the building modelled on St Mattin-in-the-Fields of London, started in 1784, with money raised through a public lottery, and was completed in 1787. It is the third oldest church in the city.

The church’s distinctive stone spire is 174 ft tall and holds a giant clock, which is wound every day

St. John’s Church – Facade
St. John’s Church – Interior

Indian Museum – Founded in 1814, this museum is the earliest and largest multipurpose museum in the Asia-Pacific region. The museum has a large collection of rocks, Buddha relics, sculptures of Hindu gods, and Indo-Persian paintings. 

Indian Museum – The museum features an interior courtyard surrounded by rooms that house a wide range of displays and exhibits.
Indian Museum, Pahari Painting – Indian miniature painting from the 17th-19th centuries that flourished in the hilly regions of Himalayas. The paintings features both religious and romantic themes, often depicting the lives of Radha and Krishna. 
Indian Museum, Bharhut Gallery – The gallery shows the architectural remains – railings and the only surviving Eastern Gateway or ‘Torana’. 

West Bengal

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